catching up/cochabamba
Hi loved ones,
I know I’ve been terrible at substacking. I have so many half-written entries saved in my drafts— I always have so much to say and it feels overwhelming, so I never finish them and never post. But maybe I will post some of those old unfinished entries! Like Sky told me today, it’s good practice to be less precious.
To catch up in the meantime: I am well. I’m in Bolivia right now! I have lost a toenail but I’m pretty sure it’s growing back. Here is a brief summary of what the last few months have looked like for me:
(Nov 9-Dec 31) Guatemala: After leaving CDMX, I spent a little under two months in Guatemala. I spent one month in Spanish school, splitting my time between a very small rural community and a small-ish (though 2nd biggest in Guate) city called Xela (formally Quetzaltenango). I loved Xela so much, and found incredible community through my school, Proyecto Linguistico Guatemalteco— it is a leftist space, and many of its staff/teachers are former guerilla fighters/revolutionaries. On top of the 5 hours/day/week 1:1 Spanish instruction, they taught us so much about Guatemalan history and politics. After my time in Xela, I traveled around the country a bit. I spent about a week at Lake Atitlan, a volcanic lake that is sacred to the Maya people. It’s lakeshore is dotted with villages, eahc with thier own personality, that you can only travel between via small, kind of jank but extremely fun speedboats called lanchas. It felt touristy (and the tourists very detached— the apolitical, party-focused backpacker crowd with no interest in Guatemalan history was a start contrast to the environment I had just left) and I honestly struggled a bit to connect with people, but it was also one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen. I also spent a while in Antigua, Guatemala, a colonial city with a lot of charm in the shadow of live volcanoes. Things really fell into place during my time there. Hiking up nearby Acatenango volcano, camping near its summit, and watching its much more active sister volcano (Fuego) spew lava all night was an unforgettable experience. Finally, I spent a couple days visiting Semuc Champey, a jungley national park in the north of the country famous for its natural pools. I was sad to leave Guatemala and the people I met there, and I feel certain I’ll return.
(Dec 31-Jan 22) Colombia: After Guate, I met James in Colombia, where we spent 10 days travelling all over the country— 3 days in Medellin, 3 days driving around Eje Cafetero (the coffee-producing region), and 4 days on the Carribbean coast (camping in Tayrona National Park, and in the city of Santa Marta). Shortly after he left, I returned to the US for just 4 days due to an unexpected family emergency, then back to Santa Marta. After a couple more days there, I took a 19 hour bus to Bogota where I stayed with Liza for a few days before flying to Chile.
(Jan 22-Feb 17) Chile (and, briefly, Argentina): I spent a few days in Santiago, which I had heard people talk down but I honestly loved. There was some magic in the air there. Sometimes a place just clicks for you, and you feel it immediately— that was Santiago for me. Then I traveled down to Puerto Natales in the far south of Chile, where I spent a couple of days preparing before setting off on the W trek (a 5 day backpacking trip in Torres del Paine National Park). After the trek, I crossed into Argentinian Patagonia via bus and spent a 3 days between two towns called El Calafate and El Chalten, checking out a giant glaciers and hiking around some more. I returned to Chile and headed back up north to San Fabian, a very small town in central-south Chile. I spent a week doing a Workaway there, living with a nice guy named Eduardo and helping him with construction/misc projects on his multi-family property/commune-lite. Finally, I returned to Santiago for a night before flying to Brazil!
(Feb 17-March 11) Brazil: I spent one night in Rio, and Leah arrived the next morning. Together we headed to Ilha Grande, a small car-less island about 3 hours (via bus and ferry) from Rio. We rotted on the beach, hiked around in the jungle a bit, and Leah experienced her first sunburn. Then spent 5 days in Rio, hanging out at the beach and wandering around the city. Leah left and I joined Peter, Raiane and the rest of our group for a long-awaited Carnaval trip! Spent a few intense and glorious days doing Carnaval in Rio, then headed to Raiane’s family’s farm a couple hours outside the city. After a few days there, we headed back to Rio and the group disbanded. I flew to Bolivia!
(March 11-now) Bolivia: I first arrived in La Paz (13k feet), but immediately flew to Cochabamba, a smaller city at about 9k ft, because I thought going from sea level to 13k ft would be a little tough. I felt drunk/high/kind of insane during my 3 hour layover in La Paz! I’d never been that high up before.
Now to the present! I’ve been couchsurfing with a great Bolivian guy, Alberto, for about a week now. I’m here and sharing a bed with a lovely French stoner, Laura, who I met in a hostel the day after I got here. We decided to come stay at Alberto’s together. Alberto grew up in Cochabamba, has two cute cats, and (sort of) runs a cafe in his front yard. It’s charming and dysfunctional, rarely opens for business, and serves whatever he has in the fridge. He’s open-hearted and laid back and quite disorganized. Laura and I help out around the house/garden/in the cafe a bit, but mostly chill out with Alberto. I’ve gotten out explored the city some days, but have also taken this as an opportunity to rest, cook, and stay still/catch up on talking to friends/family in a place that feels safe and comfy (and is free!). It’s also been a pleasure to get to know a place that is so formative and important to a dear friend (Peter lived here for a year when he was 18). The sun has been shining recently; the Andean hills loom green and glorious in the background of the city, tempering its chaos; fruit is cheap. I am rattled that this trip is over halfway over (3.5 months left! I know that is not short but it feels so short rn), but I am trying not to have scarcity mindset about time and just take things as they come. Not overplan, not rush. I want to keep traveling well beyond July, but now more than ever, I’m also yearning to return. I miss home and routine and [you]. The feelings ebb and flow. I feel grateful to be here.
I have more to say about Cocha but I’m going to post this NOW before I get distracted/overwhelmed and dont. So ttyl!!!!
Sending a lot of love your way,
Sara